Water Heater Repair
Find out why the hot water stopped, leaked or turned noisy and whether the tank is worth saving.
A puddle under a water heater is worth acting on at once. The cause may be a simple fitting or the tank itself, and a few quick checks tell you which.
By the Peoria Express Plumbing team ·
Electric heater: switch off its breaker. Gas heater: turn the gas control to pilot or off. Then close the cold supply valve on the pipe entering the top of the heater to stop the tank from refilling.
Should water keep spreading, shut the main valve too and soak up what you can. Garage floors flood quickly, and any water close to the electrical panel is a hazard.
Wipe the tank and the pipes dry, then watch. Water that appears at the top of the tank, around the pipe connections or from the relief valve discharge pipe is a different problem from water seeping from the bottom.
A leak at a fitting can be fixed without replacing the tank. A drain valve that drips can usually be tightened or replaced. A relief valve that discharges is telling you that pressure or temperature is too high, and it needs a plumber.
On a cold day or after a lot of hot water use, a tank can sweat. Condensation forms a light film, not a growing puddle, and it stops when the tank warms up. A gas unit can also produce condensation inside the flue.
If the puddle grows or comes back after you dry it, it is a leak. Place a pan or a tray under the heater and watch it for a day.
Over time, the steel tank corrodes from the inside. Once the inner liner cracks, water seeps through the insulation and out of the bottom. A leak from the base of the tank cannot be patched.
If the tank is more than ten years old and leaking from the base, replacement is the usual answer. See water heater installation and replacement for what that involves.
The origin of the leak often settles whether to repair or replace.
| Source | Meaning | Usual answer |
|---|---|---|
| Fitting on top of the tank | A connection is loose or corroded | Tighten or replace the fitting |
| Drain valve near the floor | The valve is worn | Swap the valve if the tank is sound |
| Pipe from the relief valve | The valve is worn or pressure runs high | Replace the valve and check for an expansion tank |
| Seam or jacket | The steel tank has failed | Replace the heater |
Mineral-rich water leaves scale on the bottom of the tank, and sediment shortens its life. An anode rod inside the tank is meant to corrode first, and a worn one lets the tank begin to rust.
Flushing the tank yearly and checking the anode rod can extend its life. Ask a plumber about it, or read water heater repair.
Place the heater in a drain pan that is piped to a visible outlet, and keep boxes off the floor around it. Know where each shutoff sits and work them once a year.
Consider a leak sensor on the floor beside the heater. A small alarm is an inexpensive way to hear about a leak before it spreads.
Drain some water from a tank heater each year to clear sediment, and inspect the anode rod every few years. Lift the relief valve lever briefly to test it and confirm it reseats.
Keep the area around the heater clear, and add a drain pan if it sits above living space.
See water heater repair for service options.
A relief valve for temperature and pressure opens to safeguard the tank. A drip from it means a worn valve or pressure running high.
Never cap or plug the relief pipe. It is a safety feature.
Thermal expansion can raise pressure in a closed system, and an expansion tank can help.
Match the size to your household and fuel type. A tankless unit is an option for saving space, described on the tankless water heater service page.
Ask about permits, venting and the disposal of the old tank.
A Montana State University Extension consumer guide, Water Heater Maintenance, recommends draining sediment from the tank and checking the temperature and pressure relief valve once a year. It also notes that flushing frequency depends on local water hardness.
If the leak is from the tank, no. A leak from a fitting, valve or connection can often be fixed.
Not for long. Shut it off, close the water and call. A failing tank can release a large volume quickly.
Many tanks last about ten years, though water quality and upkeep matter. A plumber can read the age from the label.
Find out why the hot water stopped, leaked or turned noisy and whether the tank is worth saving.
Fit a fresh tank heater chosen for household size, fuel type and available room.
Pull out the water, dry the structure and rebuild what a leak or storm soaked.
Learn where the main shutoff is before a pipe splits. Find it, test it and know what to do if it sticks.
The thump inside the walls after a valve shuts has a known cause, and the fix is often modest.
Weak flow at one faucet and weak flow house-wide have different causes. Sort out which situation is yours.
Shut off power and water to the unit, then call. A dispatcher can send a contractor who can tell a fitting from a failed tank.
Service area centered on Peoria and nearby Maricopa County cities.